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Is Pie the New Cupcake?

If High 5's output is any indication, the answer is no.

The second visit was, if anything, worse. I ordered a s'mores hand pie, thinking that there was no way a professional baker could fuck up something that children make with nothing more than a pointed stick and an open flame. But when I bit into it, it was Candid Camera bad—so terrible that I found myself waiting for Allen Funt to jump out from behind the bakery and say "Hey, we got you! Smile, dumbass."

For reasons I cannot even begin to understand, the bakers in the back had combined chocolate chunks and some scant tracery of marshmallow with crushed-up graham crackers inside the crust, which, when eaten together after baking, had the effect of chewing a wad of warm, gritty wallpaper paste sprinkled with chocolate chips. As in the apple-and-cheddar nightmare, the ingredients had settled unevenly, so that all the graham-cracker crumbs had become a solid plug of spackle at one end of the pie with the chocolate at the other and a tiny squirt of melted marshmallow having boiled out the top. And a cherry-almond hand pie was no better, coming off vaguely sour and occasionally nutty, but for the most part overwhelmingly bland, overcooked, and under-loved. The crust was dry and overworked, neither flaky or chewy but just limp in some places and rock-hard in others, and I found myself hating the thing like a kid being ordered to eat broccoli, resenting every bite I forced myself to take and silently staring daggers at the staff who'd given it to me.

Joshua Huston
High 5's pies are great—in a display case.

Location Info

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High 5 Pie

1400 12th Ave.
Seattle, WA 98122

Category: Restaurant > Bakeries

Region: Capitol Hill

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Pie

3515 Fremont Ave. N.
Seattle, WA 98103

Category: Restaurant > Bakeries

Region: Fremont

Details

High 5 Pie 1400 12th Ave., 695-2284, high5pie.com. 6 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon.–Fri., 7 a.m.–10 p.m. Sat.–Sun. Pie 3515 Fremont Ave. N., Suite B, 436-8590, sweetandsavorypie.com. 8 a.m.–7 p.m. Tues.–Thurs.; 8 a.m.–7 p.m. and 9 p.m.–2 a.m. Fri.–Sat.; 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Sun.

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You want to know how bad it was? To wash the texture and the sucking lack of flavor out of my brain, I ordered a slice of vegan apple pie and actually liked it. Apple filling is apparently the only thing this staff can handle with even a modicum of skill. I ate the apples out of the shell of the pie, left the crust behind, and walked out, never to return.

To start a pie shop, you need a recipe, an oven, some board space for mixing, and a basic understanding of the baker's art. That's it. Make them good enough and the smell of your pies baking will lift hobos off their feet and dogs will steal them right off your windowsill, if years of cartoon-watching have taught me anything. High 5 had the ovens and the space. It had recipes, passed down (at least according to legend) straight from Grandma Molly. What was missing were bakers who knew how to make pie. (High 5 has announced that they'll soon be revamping their crust recipe, thus providing evidence that someone realized precisely how bad it's been.)

But at the simply named Pie in Fremont, things were a little bit different. While not anyone's definition of brilliant and certainly not producing pies with magical hobo-lifting aromas, compared to what I'd choked down at High 5, Pie's pies were like eating rainbows in Candy Land.

Pie is small, close, cramped, and busy—a deep-but-narrow Fremont Avenue space with a big sign and a curve of bakery cases displaying their daily creations. Pie does small pies—about the size of a big muffin, with crusts curled like the petals of an open flower—and big pies, and balances sweet with savory better than High 5 does, offering them in roughly equal measure and in flavor combinations that people might actually want to eat. Rather than hand pies, Pie leans in the direction of the pastie or the pot pie—raised and covered pies about the size of a hand grenade and meant for eating on the run.

I ate cherry pie here that actually tasted like cherry pie, swimming with bright red juice and pieces of fruit barely contained under a lattice top crusted with sugar. I had a scratch lemon meringue with the whipped-egg fluff sweating syrup and floating atop a deep well of bright, tart yellow filling twined with bits of lemon zest, and some kind of chocolate-pudding concoction that was an absolute failure as a pie (because the minute the structural integrity of the crust was breached, all the filling just came pouring out), but which worked fine as a kind of edible pudding-delivery vehicle. A smart man would've just lifted it to his lips and drunk it down like an oversized shot. I tried to retain my dignity and ate it with a coffee spoon.

The macaroni-and-cheese pie was not great, but the concept was sound: finished mac-and-cheese baked inside an open-topped pastry crust. The crust here was excellent, a flaky container ringed on top with a halo of browned cheese. But the trouble was in the filling: The macaroni and cheese itself tasted dusty with roux and had a strange top note, like white wine used in too high a proportion. The steak-and-potato pie I ate alongside it, however, was very good—chunks of beef, nicely browned, mixed with roasted potatoes and strings of carrots, like a dry beef stew in a sealed crust.

I ate well at Pie and walked away happy. It wasn't perfect, but after the High 5 debacle I was happy just to have something on my plate that didn't feel like punishment to eat.As for pies overtaking cupcakes in the trend wars: not here and not yet. Marketing wizards be damned, Seattle just does not yet have anything that can assail the heights to which cupcakes were elevated over the past few years, and that's really a shame. But as much as I hate cupcakes, I'd eat a hundred of them before going back to High 5.

Price Guide

Pie

Cherry pie $4.50

Beef pot pie

$4.95 Lemon meringue

$4.95 Mac-and-cheese $4.95

High 5 Pie

Cutie pies $3

Hand pies $3.50-$3.75

7-inch pie $14-$16

9-inch pies $21-$23

jsheehan@seattleweekly.com

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