Trove recently added a soupier dish to its noodle-bar offerings, after many requests for one with more broth. The resulting chicken pozole (their spelling) with achiote noodles, Chinese celery, and red chili relish is a grand slam. I was skeptical about the marriage of Mexican and Asian flavors in this dish, but they were beautifully executed. Those pumpkin-colored noodles, made from achiote peppers, are perfectly dense and chewy (and hold up well to wok cooking). The addition of tamarind to the broth gives it a jolt of sourness that somehow complements the grassy, peppery flavor of Chinese celery, stronger-tasting than traditional celery. I found myself in a weird internal debate whether to gobble up the noodles or slurp down the broth—both were competing for my full attention. The chef that day told me he expects this one to stick around for a while.

nsprinkle@seattleweekly.com