I am not a vegetarian or a vegan—far from it. So if being an omnivore means I am not a fit judge, object now. I think it makes me better suited. I know what the veggies are up against. To me, the best vegetarian and vegan dishes don’t try to imitate meat, but instead focus on veggies themselves and their incredible range of texture and flavor. This is where Sutra excels. Cherries are combined with zucchini in a way that made me rethink both; the same with cold vegan peach-and-coconut-milk soup. I like the prix fixe menu and the intimate space; all you have to do is walk in the door and you’ll be quickly taken care of, no matter your predilections. Sutra happily accommodated my gluten-free friend, and with advance notice will accommodate vegan diners and many other restrictions as well. But “restrictions” seems like the wrong word here: Many foods weren’t on the menu, but the experience didn’t seem not limited at all.