Confession: I like the Syrian-Lebanese inspired Mamnoon’s lunch counter better than I do its full sit-down dinner—the best parts of their menu are distilled to a less expensive, more approachable, quick, delicious, and casual experience. Take a few friends and you can (almost) order it all. I’m going to work back from dessert, because you shouldn’t miss it, and that’s the kind of person I am. So: You must order Turkish-style coffee and ma’amoul bil saniyeh, a wonderful walnut tart with a semolina crust. If you still have room, I also adore the khobz bi assal, a flatbread with honey and fresh cheese. From there, I really like their ayran, an iced and salted yogurt drink, and then shorabat adas, a red lentil/cumin/fried garlic/coriander crispy pita “salad.” Then: beef kofta, the lamb, the mint and oregano. They are all wonderful—if you haven’t filled up on dessert . . .
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