Seattle’s a good city for sushi. Of all the fine sushi restaurants,

Seattle’s a good city for sushi. Of all the fine sushi restaurants, Kisaku, in Tangletown, is one of my favorites. It has the feel of a neighborhood restaurant in Japan, serving high-quality seafood at reasonable prices. Scour the menu for your favorites, and ask chef Ryuichi Nakano for his recommendations. Then ask if he can prepare you hotate konbu jime. Hotate means scallop, and konbu jime means sandwiching the scallop in kelp. The marination process takes time (approaching an hour is ideal), with the result being an umami boost that heightens the scallop’s sweetness into something special.

2101 N. 55th St., 545-9050, kisaku.com

Read all of our picks for Food & Drink, and explore the rest of this year’s edition of Best of Seattle.