Though Ohana‘s happy hour menu is simple (5–11:30 p.m. Mon., 5–7 p.m. Tues.–Fri., 9–11:30 p.m. Tues., Thurs., and Sun.), the restaurant’s decor takes on a rather complicated Japanese/ Polynesian theme. As your mouth savors each warm, soft square of agedashi tempura tofu ($3) your eyes dart from Japanese fans to lava lamps, from glittering streamers to hanging beads. The fresh, minimalist crunch of a Belltown hand roll (salmon, cucumber, rice, and avocado, $3) is, um, offset by the many pieces of flair dangling inside your booth. And the vibrant colors of a robata skewer of grilled veggies ($3) can’t compete with Ohana’s loud floral-print seats. But sip your warm sake ($2.50), your Pilsner Urquell ($2.50) or your Blue Hawaiian (with rum, pineapple juice, Blue Curacao, and sweet and sour, $3.95) and you’ll start to find that tiki-hut-gone-wild kind of cozy. EMILY PAGE 2207 First Ave., 956-9329, www.ohanabelltown.com. BELLTOWN