I spent 48 hours in Portland this weekend, which, like all of my trips there, could be broken down as follows: Sleeping: 25 percent (at most)Dinner: 20 percentBrunch: 20 percentShopping, going to random bars and parties, drinking coffee and complaining about being tired/full: 35 percent This time, though, my dinners at 23hoyt and Gino’s (an old favorite with my friends) weren’t the high point of my visit. Brunch was. Saturday morning, we went to Broder, a new Scandinavian restaurant next door to sister restaurant Savoy. There we had intricate breakfast plates, arranged like bento boxes on square wooden rectangles; they look like this and this. Instead of rice and pickles, our platters contained brown bread, lingonberry jam, yogurt with granola and apples, and baked egg scrambles with ham and cheese. The sleeper: a wedge of light, almond-y cake served with apple compote. On Sunday morning, brunch at North Portland’s Roux started with beignets, just for something light, and continued with other New Orleans-esque favorites: fried chicken with biscuits and gravy, eggs Benedict with house-smoked pork, a spicy crawfish omelet, and pork loin with cheesy grits and Creole tomato sauce. For those undaunted by the prospect of beignets plus eggs benedict for breakfast, Roux serves a four-course Sunday brunch for $25 that involves both of the above, as well as oysters and some sides.
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