Diners have eagerly been awaiting the opening of Good Bar, a gastropub

Diners have eagerly been awaiting the opening of Good Bar, a gastropub formed by Roz Edison and Kamala Saxton of Marination fame, along with Marination chef Josh Kelly and his wife Nancy. Originally slated to open this summer, the Pioneer Square newcomer welcomed the press last night for a preview party. They will open to the public beginning this Sunday (for the Seahawks game, of course).Good Bar is besties with Mike Easton’s Pizzeria Gabbiano (read: it’s right next door), which seems a promising portent given Il Corvo and Gabbiano’s success. Located in the old Pacific Commercial building (built in 1900), Good Bar chose to preserve some of the original bank’s details, like the beautifully-wrought vaults. It’s an intimate, well-designed spot that feels both modern yet historic. I especially love that there’s a second-level dining area that overlooks the bar seating below. You can peruse their menu of small plates ranging from $5-$15 and their extensive cocktail, beer and wine list online. I sampled their Salt-roasted fingerlings and potato salad aioli; a plate that sounds gimmicky but actually worked. The aioli really did taste like potato salad, thanks to eggs, mustard and cornichons. Their Old Bay boiled peanuts were unexpectedly good. The only boiled peanuts I’ve ever had are the terrible ones sold road-side in the South. At Good Bar, they boil large fresh, green peanuts and give them a kick with Old Bay. It’s a little messy for my taste though; I don’t mind getting my hands dirty with Old Bay spices when the end result is juicy Maryland blue crab meat, but shelling these spice-coated snacks seems like a little too much work for just a peanut. A large, meaty sardine over a Corona bean puree, anchovy, raab and sherry vinegar was tangy to an extreme, but that tang certainly helped control the fishiness of the dish. I’d ask one of the bartenders which cocktail or glass of wine might help balance that acidity. I also tried a mini version of their sloppy joes, the meat cooked sweetly and rich with tomato and stout. However, because they were making them for a crowd, it didn’t come on the Macrina ciabatta that it will be served with regularly. The little buns, perhaps, didn’t do it justice. As for drinks, there are quite a few cocktails featuring rye whiskey or bourbon. I tried a gin concoction instead, the Zucca Negroni made with gin, zucca (a Rhubarb-based aperitif) and sweet vermouth for $12 (ouch). At last night’s event, the team of owners and Chef Kelly talked about how they want to transcend trendiness and become a solid establishment in Pioneer Square. While the menu, ironically, feels very “of the moment,” hopefully the staff will maintain the high quality bar they’ve set for themselves and not just add to the growing list of overhyped, overpriced gastropubs proliferating throughout the city.