Taking a seat here feels like easing into a plush club chair in Dad’s old-fashioned study—the warm wood-paneled walls, smooth leather-framed bar, and understated lighting lend an easy masculine elegance. Troiani is a gem anytime, but weekdays from 3 to 6 p.m., the classic Italian grill presents happy hour for grown-ups; one of the few places in Seattle you can go in your work suit and feel comfortable, maybe even cool. The happy hour bar bites are one of the classiest bargains in town: all seven appetizers from the main menu at $4, a fraction of the full price. Choices include six crisp, perfectly grilled prawns (usually $12.95) or a heaping bowl of more than two dozen mussels styled with fennel, coriander, subtle orange, and garlicky bread crumbs (usually $8.95). Even the bar offers a Dining Experience, with thoughtful presentation and exemplary service. There are only three drink specials (all $5), but the Cosmo is divine, and the perky Lemon Drop is made with fresh-squeezed juice. Skip the well martini and go for the real $9 thing, with gin infused with fresh rosemary. Cocktail traditionalists will appreciate the classic sours with citrus and egg white. Add a dreamy panna cotta ($7) to your bar bites and you’ve got a full meal. 1001 Third Ave., 206-624-4060. WEST EDGE/DOWNTOWN