Belltown dining tends to take place within quotation marks. You're eating not just sushi but "Saito's sushi," not a simple salmon steak but "salmon at Flying Fish." Every restaurant, practically every dish, is expected to be a statement, in however small a way a Big Deal. It must be a terrible strain for restaurants, lined up side by side for blocks like the theaters on the Boulevard du Crime, each offering its special variation on the fundamental vaudeville of dining. Some venues seem to hold up better than others, varying their pitch enough to keep the punters happy while staying faithful to the values that gained them attention in the first place. Trendy? But of course. And we wouldn't have it any other way. Roger Downey
Robin Laananen
Brasa chef Tamara Murphy.
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Kaspar's
In America, "family restaurant" usually means "bring the kids and don't expect much from the kitchen." In Europe "family restaurant" usually means "a restaurant run by a family," and that's the kind of restaurant Kaspar's is. In fact, it really ought to be named "Kaspar & Nancy & Markus'," recognizing the integral roles played by Mrs. Kaspar Donier and Donier's brother. It's a family restaurant in a more extended way as well; to a degree unusual in trendy Seattle dining circles, Kaspar's clientele includes many regulars (another "European" touch, come to think of it), who stay in touch with the restaurant's numerous special events, classes, tastings, and other programs through one of the region's most elaborately informative Web sites. As for the food: Donier's cooking strikes a beautifully sustained balance between seasonal ingredients and classical techniques, sumptuous preparations and light accompaniments. The room, one of the oldest in current operation is Seattle, has an easy elegance that turns any dinner into something of an occasion. R.D.
19 W. Harrison St., 206-298-0123. LOWER QUEEN ANNE $$-$$$
www.kaspars.com
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Bada Lounge
Don't be intimidated by the swanky design concept or the swarms of beautiful people. The Bada Lounge may look like Tomorrowland reimagined by Eero Saarinen, but the food is anything but an afterthought. The Asian-inspired menu aims high and hits its mark. Hamachi and tuna sashimi are showy and delicious. Massive, meaty tempura shrimp are served with inspired tempura-fried items such as delicate, minty shiso leaves and refreshing, snowflake-shaped lotus root. Pot stickers pack flavorful bundles of duck. Entrées trot the globe, from seared sea scallop phad Thai to a seafood-specked risotto to peppered duck breast with sweet-and-sour cabbage. Flavors are strong and harmonious, the fish is as fresh as can be, and the kitchen is apparently unable to create a boring dish. The happy hour is one of the best deals in the neighborhood. K.M.
2230 First Ave., 206-374-8717. $$-$$$
www.badalounge.com
Brasa
One of the first Seattle restaurants to bring the Spanish tradition of tapas back home, Brasa encourages browsing, with a menu that ranges from two-bites-elegant to serious shareables. The Spanish spirit is more suggested than literal, evoked by chef master Tamara Murphy's penchant for fragrant, smoky seasonings and touches of Spanish cheese in the composition of dishes. A recent meal touched on all the Brasa themes nicely: medallions of rare venison on a bed of sweet-potato spaetzle; meaty, gamy quail; calamari stuffed with dense, spicy Spanish sausage; cheese-stuffed ravioli in a rich mushroom sauce; an elegant frozen lemon pudding; and a tarte Tatin melding succulent pears with just-charred puff pastry. Bryan Hill's wine list is extensive; not so the list of wines by the glass, but those that appear are first-rate. R.D.
2107 Third Ave., 206-728-4220. $$$
Cascadia
Cascadia got off a bit on the wrong foot with midlevel diners-out. The menu layout was affected and off-putting; rumors abounded that bottomless dot-com bucks were behind it, and the prices and even the stunningly designed interior, with its wall of designer glass, did nothing to refute that. But over the years, Cascadia has won its rightful place among serious eateries. Chef Kerry Sears has proved relentlessly committed to fresh, local, seasonal produce, and as the menu has grown less constipated and more diner-friendly, it's become easier to appreciate what Sears' imagination and classical technique can do with them. The delicious and modestly priced bar menu has offered a low-stress avenue of approach to the finer things on offer inside. And the establishment boasts a wine steward who takes as much trouble matching a guest with the right $10 glass of wine as he does over a $250 Montrachet. R.D.
2328 First Ave., 206-448-8884. $$$
Flying Fish
The formula at this extremely popular restaurant is simple: Find superb fish, prepare it simply for maximum integrity of flavor, and then surround or top it with accompaniments ranging from the subtle to the bizarre. The result is, 19 times out of 20, an eating experience ranging from the agreeable to the revelatory. An example of the latter: a simple grilled fillet of salmon on a bed of intensely porcini-flavored butter sauce. Chef Steve Smrstik specializes in startling couplings like that, so it's not surprising if sometimes the couplings seem . . . well, odd. But the odds of an odd one are small, and it's likely your dining companion(s) will be willing to take it off your hands in exchange for bites of their entrée. Flying Fish's popularity has its downside; reservations can be hard to come by, and even if you get in at the hour you want to, you may be seated in the upstairs gallery, where the heat and noise of the big, roughly finished room can be a little oppressive. Try to stay on the main floor if the reservationist will let you. Or dine in the bar, where you can eat most of the same dishes those at tables are eating. R.D.
2234 First Ave., 206-728-8595. $$-$$$
www.flyingfishseattle.com
Lampreia
Many think Lampreia owner Scott Carsberg is one of the most talented chefs in America and that the restaurant is worth a cross-country trip to visit. Others never miss an opportunity to condemn it for having a snooty tone and condescending service. Well, Lampreia is not for everyone; but for true gastronomes, it is a mecca—a sanctuary for diners seeking creative, Italian-influenced Northwest fare that features flavor over quantity. The quiet atmosphere and subtle decor have a European feel. Carsberg's signature is simplicity and elegance, using many rare and expensive ingredients (white truffles, aged balsamic vinegars, and caviar). To experience his genius, one should consider tasting a selection of the dramatic appetizers and sublime intermezzo plates. The sumptuous tasting menu changes monthly and features a seasonal theme. Desserts are innovative and imaginative. Wines are well chosen, and the bar offers many rare spirits by the glass. For those diners-out who are fixated above all on the food, Lampreia is a destination indeed. D.M.
