What matters most at The Calf and Kid, the dairy corner of the always-stimulating Melrose Market, is not so much what’s in the cheese case, but the woman standing behind it. Sheri LaVigne is a wonderfully knowledgeable cheesemonger who cares deeply about regional cheese makers, their products, and her customers. Whether you’re seeking stink and ooze or subtlety and elegance, LaVigne is certain to recommend the perfect wedge. HANNA RASKIN 1531 Melrose Ave., Suite C2, 467-5447, calfandkid.blogspot.com