To a Nebraskan, every eatery in Seattle would probably qualify as a seafood restaurant, but Sea Garden sets the standard for the category. The International District destination draws on Asian-Pacific and maritime traditions for dishes including geoduck in black-bean sauce, ginger oysters, and salt-and-pepper crab, plucked from the display case and presented for approval before steaming. HANNA RASKIN 509 Seventh Ave. S., 623-2100