There was a time when eaters who couldn’t afford industrially produced food were stuck with whatever they could grow or catch. Pricing’s since flipped, and it’s the fresh food that commands more money, as demonstrated by the modest splurges on La Medusa’s market-driven Sicilian menu. Yet every dish is worth its fee, especially on Wednesday nights in summertime, when the menu functions as a “Here’s what you missed” outline for folks who couldn’t make the neighborhood farmers market. Vegetables are handled with tremendous care, meats are gorgeously grilled, and there’s always Columbia City Bakery bread for sopping up the harmonized sauces. HANNA RASKIN 4857 Rainier Ave. S., 723-2192, lamedusarestaurant.com