Situated on a stretch of Queen Anne Avenue that’s notoriously tough on fine-dining restaurants, LloydMartin has struggled in its first year to keep its dining room packed. Vets invariably wonder why, since Sam Crannell and his talented crew have created the restaurant that Seattle eaters say they want: The focus at this clubby haunt is squarely on the food, although there are well-made cocktails and an approachable wine list. The menu fluxes with the seasons and Crannell’s whims, but nearly every dish is a boldfaced celebration of superlative ingredients. HANNA RASKIN 1525 Queen Anne Ave. N., 420-7602, lloydmartinseattle.com