Seattle is home to plenty of pizzaiolos sweating to conform to strict VPN standards, which dictate how a pizza should be shaped and how long it should spend in the oven in order to emerge as an acceptable homage to Neapolitan pie-making traditions. But pizzerias not obliged to follow rigid rules issued by a bunch of guys in Naples are free to focus on crust texture, sauce flavor, and topping ratios. The Independent Pizzeria has mastered all three, and its near-waterfront location would charm even the most finicky Italian. HANNA RASKIN 4235 E. Madison St., 860-6110, theindiepizzeria.com