Nobody who walks into Jules Maes’ spacious, vintage, saloon-like interior—or into any bar on the West Coast, for that matter—is going to expect to encounter a sandwich worthy of being pitted against Philadelphia’s finest. The key to their Georgetown Cheesesteak is the caliber and preparation of the meat. Most cheesesteaks contain meat shaved thin enough to resemble Steak-Umms. Granted, that’s the classical standard, but it’s pretty consistently underwhelming (check out Elo’s down the street, for instance). By contrast, the Georgetown Cheesesteak’s meat is chunkier and juicier than that of your average cheesesteak, refusing to be overpowered by its neighboring ingredients. In this sandwich, the steak is the star. Isn’t that the way it should always be? MIKE SEELY 5919 Airport Way S., 957-7766