Matthew Lisowski knows that in the brewing process, a change in temperature of a mere three degrees can alter a beer’s flavor from sweet to dry. He knows the distinct flavor profiles of Amarillo and Equinox hops. He knows when to change a beer’s recipe and when to leave it alone. This may be why Olympia’s Fish Tale Ales, where he works as general manager, recently won the title of Best Beer in the World, according to the World Beer Awards, a 30-country, 1,000-plus beer competition.

Taking home first place was Fish Tale Ale’s Beyond the Pale, a super-flavorful, floral, big, easy-drinking pale ale, one of the 20-odd beers Fish is churning out in its home in our state capital.

Fish Brewing, which oversees the operations of Fish Tale Ales, Leavenworth Brewing, and Spire Mountain Cider, is the center of Olympia’s thriving beer and bar community, and is currently contemplating a plunge into the distilling business, with a hopped whiskey potentially on the way.

But what other beer gems are tucked away down there? Where should interested beer drinkers go in Olympia to wet their whistles?

The Fish Tale Brew Pub: Across the street from Fish Brewing is their public house, which expanded recently (“We’re in a huge growth phase,” says Lisowski) and is now open to all ages. The pub offers flights of beer, which include standouts like O IPA, a bright, balanced organic IPA, and the Mud Shark Porter, a distinct, earthy concoction that has been brewed since 1993. The menu is typical bar fare done very well, from the big plate of cheesy nachos to the textbook hamburger.

Brotherhood: With velvet paintings on the wall, a black-and-white photo booth, and a giant powder-blue guitar hanging from the ceiling, this retro bar is comfortable and unassuming. In its black and red booths is even a touch of the diner in Pulp Fiction. Brotherhood serves an array of draft beers (as well as stiff cocktails), but really it’s the atmosphere that makes it tick.

Rhythm & Rye: The easiest way to describe this joint to Seattleites is to say that it’s Olympia’s Tractor Tavern—an expansive roadhouse bar with a big stage that often hosts roots music, blues, country, and folk. (Fun fact: Seattle’s Industrial Revelation recorded a live record here in 2014.) R&R had one of my favorite beers on tap when I visited, Ninkasi’s Dawn of the Red India Red Ale, and I felt right at home sipping it.

Olympia Brewhouse: One of the most historic breweries on the West Coast, the Olympia Brewhouse was built in 1906 right outside Olympia in Tumwater. Now, though, its expansive set of buildings is partially dilapidated—but local officials have big plans for their redevelopment, hoping amenities on the giant plots will one day include a museum, a farmers market, fermentation classes, and microbrewing studios.

Heidi Behrends Cerniwey, brewery project manager for the city of Tumwater, says she hopes that in three to five years, significant progress will be made. Indeed, looking at the sun-washed red bricks of what remains of the giant brewery that once employed some 900 people, she says, “There’s so much we can do.”

beerhunting@seattleweekly.com