If your idea of a seafood restaurant includes she-crab soup, dainty oyster forks, and warm hand towels, Taylor Shellfish’s retail store might not scratch your itch. But if you’re willing to trade silver tureens and ceremony for shockingly fresh oysters, a glass of pinot gris, and a crusty baguette, there is no better seafood restaurant than the counter operation Taylor last year opened alongside Melrose Market. In addition to the oysters, there are clams, mussels, crabs, and a chowder bar overseen by geoduck maestro Xinh Dwelley. It’s the perfect destination for locals and tourists who want to feel closer to the sea. HANNA RASKIN 1521 Melrose Ave., 501-4321, taylormelrose.com