Gramps is going to love Ray’s Boathouse. He’ll probably talk your ear off about how he used to come to Shilshole “back in the day” before the original Ray’s burned down in ’87. (Isn’t it cute how Grandpa can recall the dates of disasters, but he never manages to remember your birthday?) The rebuilt Ray’s, which opened more than 20 years ago, isn’t quite the same, but it’ll do just fine because it’s got a lot of nice dishes he remembers from the good old days. And, by gum, the view’s still a knockout. As long as the old man’s picking up the tab, you can explore some of chef Peter Birk’s innovative, seasonally driven fare: smoked sablefish with lovage pesto, albacore tuna seared rare, and, for turf lovers, confitted Skagit River Ranch pork belly. While Pop Pop will want to get his hands on a pile of king crab legs, first order him a classic martini and toast the guy who played a crucial role in bringing you into this world, you ungrateful punk. LESLIE KELLY Ray’s Boathouse, 6049 Seaview Ave. N., 789-3770, rays.com