“Zoe is doing its darnedest to distract patrons from its shortcomings, diverting

September 24, 2012 12:00 am
Regrade Manhattan
Regrade Manhattan

“Zoe is doing its darnedest to distract patrons from its shortcomings, diverting them with remarkably strong cocktails, a smattering of dishes draped in gratuitous scads of fat, and a menu studded with lingo that would have made Senator Smathers blush.”Read the rest of Hanna Raskin’s review here.Photos by Joshua Huston.Published on May 7, 2012

A swim of zingy Bolognese showcasing wild boar aE“ a signature staple protein aE“ was excellent, but the nettle papardelle noodles in the same bowl were mushy and limp.

A swim of zingy Bolognese showcasing wild boar aE“ a signature staple protein aE“ was excellent, but the nettle papardelle noodles in the same bowl were mushy and limp.

Lamb ribs painted with a shiny tamarind sauce were the victims of prep inattention that resulted in unpleasant mouthfuls of fat that should have been rendered or trimmed.

Lamb ribs painted with a shiny tamarind sauce were the victims of prep inattention that resulted in unpleasant mouthfuls of fat that should have been rendered or trimmed.

Snail croquettes, plopped in a smear of tart remoulade, had an oddly pixilated quality.

Snail croquettes, plopped in a smear of tart remoulade, had an oddly pixilated quality.

Cardboardy pork rinds looked and tasted like puffed paperweights.

Cardboardy pork rinds looked and tasted like puffed paperweights.

From the vantage point of the patio, ZoA« feels less awkwardly special occasion-ish, and more like the kind of restaurant that could earn a spot in a diner's regular rotation.

From the vantage point of the patio, ZoA« feels less awkwardly special occasion-ish, and more like the kind of restaurant that could earn a spot in a diner’s regular rotation.

Restaurant ZoA«, 1318 East Union St. (206)256-2060. restaurantzoe.com.

Restaurant ZoA«, 1318 East Union St. (206)256-2060. restaurantzoe.com.