Where: Juan Colorado8709 14th Ave. S. (South Park)206-764-9379Time of Entry: Sunday, 1 p.m.-ish. But Juan Colorado had been open since 10, and the half-cantina, half-restaurant had a few patrons enjoying soccer on TV. A family came in, a young couple and three small kids, who looked like they were straight from church. I brought my Mexican plus-one, who’s picky about his native cuisine. I and the other two in our party were the only non-Mexicans in the place, a strong recommendation. I’ve never been anyplace in Seattle that felt more like actually being in Mexico.Prescriptions: The brunchiest item on their very traditional menu (enchilada plates, etc.) was the machaca carne de res desebrada, eggs scrambled with shredded beef, peppers, and onions (which came, as everything did, with rice, beans, and a small salad). But the meal’s highlight–by itself a reason to go, trust me–was the fantastic salsa Mexicana (pictured): tomatoes, jalapenos, cabbage, and cilantro. It couldn’t have been fresher; we heard the cook chopping the vegetables. It tasted bright and brilliant and vibrant, and improved everything it touched. I had chicken in mole, delicious but a shade salty; the salsa lifted and perfected it. 75 cents a bowl.Hair of the Dog: For church dad at the next table, beer with Clamato and fresh lime with chili salt on the rim. For me, an orange Jarritos.Success of the Soak: Juan Colorado is low-key enough that they wouldn’t blink if you slouched in half-conscious after a rough night. Slump into a corner, keep your sunglasses on, and order a bowl of the miracle-cure salsa.(Photo by Mark Ferrell.)
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