Every now and then, I’ll get a scathing e-mail from someone who ran out and bought a wine I reviewed favorably in this column, only to find it akin to bat urine. I could assume these letter-writers don’t know their collective asses from their elbows, but I think there’s a better explanation: The wines have gone bad. Here’s two common causes of funky wine: 1) Oxidation—this usually occurs when there’s a leak in the cork, allowing air to get inside the bottle, and the resulting wine tastes absolutely dead, lifeless, kaput; and, 2) Corkiness—this is actually a fungus that grows on the cork, making the wine taste like cardboard and smell like a wet sheepdog. If you encounter a wine with either of these flaws, your retailer or restaurateur should be happy to take it back.

Hey, didn’t we just visit this winery?

Considering how many great wineries there are in the world, it seems pointless to revisit one in this column. But I can’t help myself. The new ’98 Walla Walla Vintners Merlot ($25) is too freaking good to pass up (and every bit as good as their Cabernet Franc reviewed previously). It’s densely rich with egg cream, black currant, blackberry, chocolate, and slight olive oil notes. Plus a finish that’s just orgasmic.

Wine Fella, On your recommendation, I went to Taste Washington! and had a great time. But there was too big a crowd around the Cabernet and chocolate tasting. What did I miss?

EARL, PORTLAND

Earl, Nothing, as far as I’m concerned. I can’t figure out all the fuss over drinking Cabernet while eating pieces of chocolate. It’s a horrible combination. Why? Because the sweetness and intensity of the chocolate cancels out all the flavor in the Cabernet, leaving you with little more than tart tannins. Blech!

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