“Walls plastered with random New York memorabilia and cribbed attempts at humor,

October 29, 2012 12:00 am
Sweet, tomato-drenched cabbage rolls, bloated with ground beef,were excellent.
Sweet, tomato-drenched cabbage rolls, bloated with ground beef,were excellent.

“Walls plastered with random New York memorabilia and cribbed attempts at humor, such as a poster of the “Jewish Zodiac,” thicken the already-stale air. It’s too bad, because the kitchen isn’t unskilled. While the flaccid, seedless rye bread is tragic, many of the housemade deli classics are so close to the best versions of the same that nostalgic eaters can fill in the flavor blanks.”Read the rest of Hanna Raskin’s review here.Photos by Joshua Huston.Published on January 20, 2012

But if you're craving deli, there's much here that will do the trick. A lox platter showcases a satisfyingly fatty slab of Nova.

But if you’re craving deli, there’s much here that will do the trick. A lox platter showcases a satisfyingly fatty slab of Nova.

The dumpling was crisscrossed by too much dough, and baked until it was dry as a desert riverbed.

The dumpling was crisscrossed by too much dough, and baked until it was dry as a desert riverbed.

Dining at this deli's broken model knock-off is doubly depressing.

Dining at this deli’s broken model knock-off is doubly depressing.

This deli also sells hard alcohol.

This deli also sells hard alcohol.

Walls plastered with random New York memorabilia and cribbed attempts at humor, such as a poster of the Jewish Zodiac, thicken the already stale air.

Walls plastered with random New York memorabilia and cribbed attempts at humor, such as a poster of the Jewish Zodiac, thicken the already stale air.

Nothing says deli like having a pianist playing all your favorite hits.

Nothing says deli like having a pianist playing all your favorite hits.

The critical items which arrive via delivery truck are smartly sourced: The bagels are baked by Blazing Bagels, and Nation's Bestcures the corned beef.

The critical items which arrive via delivery truck are smartly sourced: The bagels are baked by Blazing Bagels, and Nation’s Bestcures the corned beef.

Goldbergs' Famous Delicatessen, 3924 Factoria Boulevard SE, Bellevue.

Goldbergs’ Famous Delicatessen, 3924 Factoria Boulevard SE, Bellevue.