Once home chefs were exposed to fleur de sel and Himalayan pink salt, it was over for regular NaCl. Now there’s Volterra’s Fennel Salt ($16.99). In February, the folks behind Volterra restaurant, Don Curtiss and Michelle Quisenberry, partnered with upscale Italian importer Ritrovo to package Italian-inspired Volterra salt for grocery-store aisles. Chef Curtiss has been serving the salt, which contains toasted fennel seed and orange peel, as part of the bread service at Volterra. Indeed, a sprinkle of it is delightful on e.v.o.o. (extra virgin olive oil) dipped bread. It makes food taste salty, yes, but adds a toasty finish, too. Use it with meat and potato dishes—it’s recommended for pork chops and hunks of roasted potatoes. On separate occasions, I sprinkled it on scrambled eggs, buttered pasta, and fresh tomatoes, and it performed like a champ across the board. Sold through select Metropolitan Markets, Ballard Market, and at Bella Cosa in Wallingford. Or, head to the restaurant to try the fresh version. 5411 Ballard Ave. N.W., 206-789-5100, www.volterrarestaurant.com. BALLARD