Which wine deserves the bird?

Thanksgiving presents a particularly thorny problem to wine drinkers. After all, which wine do you pair with foods like turkey, ham, sweet potatoes, green bean casserole with canned dried onions, and assorted other oddities guests typically bring? Experience tells me that white wines often don’t stand up to many of the stronger flavors, while red wines usually overwhelm them. One exception: Beaujolais Nouveau. Beaujolais is a region in the southern part of France’s Burgundy district, and it’s the only Burgundian red that is not made from Pinot Noir grapes. Beaujolais, by French law, must be made from 100 percent Gamay grapes. There are many grades of Beaujolais, but those with the Nouveau (translation: new) designation indicate a wine that is released to the public only weeks after the grapes are picked. It’s quite fruity (although not sweet), with very low tannins, and complements a variety of more subtle foods.

Ah, but which Beaujolais Nouveau?

Wine lovers eagerly anticipate the release of Beaujolais Nouveau (pronounced boe-zjuh-LAY noo-VOE) each year on the third Thursday of November. In fact, as I write this, the 2000 vintage has not yet been released. Still, by the time you read this or soon thereafter, the new Beaujolais will be in your local stores. A safe bet is the 2000 Duboeuf (pronounced duh-BOOF) Beaujolais Nouveau. At about 10 bucks a pop, this is an excellent wine that won’t make too many demands on your guests but will sidle up contentedly with your bird. Duboeuf’s Nouveau typically exhibits bright strawberry flavors and a minimal amount of tannin, making it enjoyable for even wine neophytes.

DENNIS,

I recently bought a bottle of wine you recommended. When I cut off the foil thingy, there was a bunch of stinky mold on the cork. What exactly was it?

EDGAR

EDGAR,

I think the Latin term for it is moldus stinkus. You’re right on both counts: It is mold, and it is stinky. That furry stuff occurs when the cork doesn’t form an adequate seal, allowing some of the wine to seep out. The wine collects on the top of the cork and, like many food products, turns moldy. The real problem is that if wine can seep out, air can seep in, spoiling the wine. Bring the wine back to your shop, and they’ll gladly replace it with another bottle. While still in the store, tear off the foil capsule to see that the new bottle is fine and dandy.

DENNIS

E-mail: wine@seattleweekly.com