The owners of Georgetown’s Smarty Pants have created more than an out-of-the-way

September 24, 2012 12:00 am
Tim Ptak, who co-owns Hudson with Michelle Braasch, says that he's had an architectural crush for years on Hudson's little brick building, which used to be Inger's Diner in the early 1930s.
Tim Ptak, who co-owns Hudson with Michelle Braasch, says that he's had an architectural crush for years on Hudson's little brick building, which used to be Inger's Diner in the early 1930s.

The owners of Georgetown’s Smarty Pants have created more than an out-of-the-way diner. All photos by Renee McMahon. Read Jonathan Kauffman’s full review.Published on July 8, 2009

A restaurant in the middle of nowhere, it felt like, but half the seats were filled, and on a Monday nightaE”I've seen three-star restaurants in this city with paltrier crowds.

A restaurant in the middle of nowhere, it felt like, but half the seats were filled, and on a Monday nightaE”I’ve seen three-star restaurants in this city with paltrier crowds.

Neither Tom of Finland nor Charles Bukowski would have felt out of place here, though both would probably have found Hudson on the classy side.

Neither Tom of Finland nor Charles Bukowski would have felt out of place here, though both would probably have found Hudson on the classy side.

The morning's chicken-fried steak disappears during lunch and reappears at five.

The morning’s chicken-fried steak disappears during lunch and reappears at five.

The menus, designed by Ptak and kitchen manager Peter Graham, update the diner by upgrading ingredients, optionally subbing Field Roast for beef in a few dishes, and by giving much of the food a Southern cast, always an easy way to break out of standard diner-food blandness without appearing too aspirational.

The menus, designed by Ptak and kitchen manager Peter Graham, update the diner by upgrading ingredients, optionally subbing Field Roast for beef in a few dishes, and by giving much of the food a Southern cast, always an easy way to break out of standard diner-food blandness without appearing too aspirational.

The chicken-fried steak, had a fantastic breading, a crisp, golden crust that looked like a shiver had been frozen all over its surface. The dull, gummy cream gravy on top, however, had clearly been made hours before.

The chicken-fried steak, had a fantastic breading, a crisp, golden crust that looked like a shiver had been frozen all over its surface. The dull, gummy cream gravy on top, however, had clearly been made hours before.

Hudson is not quite a restaurantaE”more of an all-day diner-cum-bar-cum-espresso stand.

Hudson is not quite a restaurantaE”more of an all-day diner-cum-bar-cum-espresso stand.

The U-shaped bar looks like it was molded out of a single bar of chocolate.

The U-shaped bar looks like it was molded out of a single bar of chocolate.

The bar serves Speakeasy White Lightning wheat beer and Radeberger pilsner on draft.

The bar serves Speakeasy White Lightning wheat beer and Radeberger pilsner on draft.

You have to be 21 to eat at this diner, even during brunch and lunch.

You have to be 21 to eat at this diner, even during brunch and lunch.

Hudson's an all-purpose diner during the workday, but when Georgetown shuts down for the night, beers and burgers are best.

Hudson’s an all-purpose diner during the workday, but when Georgetown shuts down for the night, beers and burgers are best.