Frites: Belgian Fries Besides nachos, is there a better snack item that still counts as, you know, “food” (as in cuisine, not sustenance) than fries? Of course not. Yet despite this unassailable fact, there aren’t many places in town you can go exclusively for fries. Wish no more, because not only does Frites: Belgian Fries (that’s what it says on the door) serve up delicious, thick-cut russet fries in a heavy paper cone in three sizes ($2.50 small, $4 medium, $5.50 large), they offer more than a dozen sauces (at a quarter apiece) to eat them with: ketchup, curry ketchup, mustard, honey mustard, barbecue sauce, frites sauce (Euro-style mayo), tartar, ranch, poblano ranch, garlic aioli, homemade pesto mayo, rosemary mayo, and roasted red pepper chipotle. All are homemade, and all (we tried one of everything) are terrific. (Special accolades go to the thick, thick honey mustard and the roasted red pepper chipotle.) Vinegar is gratis. The first eatery of its kind in Seattle, Frites is located next to Neumo’s and open—club hoppers take note—until 2:30 a.m. MICHAELANGELO MATOS 925 E. Pike St. (no phone yet) CAPITOL HILL

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