Lee’s Asian Restaurant From the looks of it, there isn’t anything special about Lee’s. In fact, on the outside it appears to be pretty drab, and inside it isn’t much better. But we learned long ago not to judge a book by its cover. On any given night, Lee’s is take-out headquarters. The seven-flavor beef ($8.95) is highly rated but those steering clear of red meat will be more than pleased with the salmon hot muk ($10.95). This Thai-inspired dish might even win over some meat lovers with its banana leaf–steamed salmon fillets served in a generous helping of spicy red curry, sweet coconut milk, and fragrant lime leaves. Rich and delicious, this is just the sort of thing we’d expect from the Lee Brothers, who have worked at Wild Ginger and Shallots Asian Bistro. The brothers use their knowledge of traditional Chinese cooking as well as their experience with other Asian cuisines to offer a variety of delicious seafood, vegetarian, and meat dishes. It’s just too bad they didn’t pick up much about ambiance or decor along the way. Call ahead and take your hot muk to go. 4510 California Ave. S.W., 206-932-8209. WEST SEATTLE $

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