Roti They look like little hats. The samosas at Roti ($4.50 for veggie, $4.95 for meat) arrive piping hot and emit a rich scent of cardamom. They’re stuffed with peas and diced potatoes completely infused with a glorious blend of house-ground spices. Cumin, chili, and garam masala add up to a mouth-filling flavor edged with heat; the spice-shy can take comfort in the lovely, yogurt-based cucumber-and-tomato salad served alongside the samosas, a sort of safety net for the adventurous tongue. Named after a type of Indian bread, Roti serves a wide assortment of classic dishes, from tandoori-cooked meats to chicken curries and fierce vindaloos, but the samosas deserve special mention. Though plenty flavorful on their own, they taste especially good with mint chutney and tamarind sauce. NEAL SCHINDLER 530 Queen Anne Ave. N., 206-216-7684. LOWER QUEEN ANNE

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