ARAYA’S VEGETARIAN PLACE Moderately famed for its lunch buffet, Araya (aka “that vegan Thai place on the Ave”) has long been destination dining for the dairy-adverse. Of course, necessityin this case the exile of milk and meatis the mother of some crazy curries. On a recent visit, I issued a cartoon-style double-take at the sight of Araya’s specials: two curries starring avocado and pumpkin. Avocado, hero of party dips, and pumpkin, protagonist of pies (and part-time modish ice-cream flavor), might seem overly experimental in a curry context. But once a forkful of either dish settles on your tongue, you’ll likely sing a different tune. The avocado works particularly well, adding silkiness and uncommon flavor to an already luxurious bath of green curry spices, coconut milk, perfectly cooked tofu, and assorted veggies. The chunks of avocado are firm, not guacamole-mushy, and their tenderness and sea-green color lends the dish a wonderful visual and textural complexity. Araya’s revolving-door curry special also features mango on occasion; be sure to venture under the purple awning soon to check out the flavor of the day. Araya’s Vegetarian Place, 4732 University Way N.E., 206-524-4332. UNIVERSITY DISTRICT NEAL SCHINDLER

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