“The latest iteration of its menu includes an assemblage of small plates

October 29, 2012 12:00 am
Fat skewers of smoked salmon—stood upright like sparklers in a thick wheel of pineapple, garnished with a peppery cucumber relish—make a fine starter.
Fat skewers of smoked salmon—stood upright like sparklers in a thick wheel of pineapple, garnished with a peppery cucumber relish—make a fine starter.

“The latest iteration of its menu includes an assemblage of small plates intended to recapture eyes that might otherwise be trained on the restaurant’s regionally definitive Shilshole Bay view. With summer scenery that’s the sea-and-sky equivalent of Ryan Gosling, Ray’s would probably still have to invest in vibrating table pagers if it served nothing but gruel and buttermilk.”Read the rest of Hanna Raskin’s review here.Photos by Joshua Huston.Published on August 8, 2012

None of my guests registered any complaints about a linguine featuring gaping, meaty clams and a pistachio pesto sauce.

None of my guests registered any complaints about a linguine featuring gaping, meaty clams and a pistachio pesto sauce.

Described by our server as his favorite hangover cure, the open-faced fried egg sandwich is pretty marvelous regardless of how you misspent the previous night.

Described by our server as his favorite hangover cure, the open-faced fried egg sandwich is pretty marvelous regardless of how you misspent the previous night.

Artichoke hearts.

Artichoke hearts.

A pyramid of banana mousse and Nutella ganache, texturized with hazelnut dust, is an extraordinary yoking of flavors.

A pyramid of banana mousse and Nutella ganache, texturized with hazelnut dust, is an extraordinary yoking of flavors.

Bartender Kevin, making the Manhattan with peach bitters.

Bartender Kevin, making the Manhattan with peach bitters.

A Manhattan made with peach bitters is a seasonal model of the genre.

A Manhattan made with peach bitters is a seasonal model of the genre.

Ray's has long been known for turning out solid versions of coastal classics, and the current round of tinkering isn't threatening to rock that reputation.

Ray’s has long been known for turning out solid versions of coastal classics, and the current round of tinkering isn’t threatening to rock that reputation.

Hey, you're at the beach, which means freewheeling's the norm. If you don't feel like subjecting yourself to Ray's recent experiments, you can still order a salad or a burger and have a lovely plein air evening.

Hey, you’re at the beach, which means freewheeling’s the norm. If you don’t feel like subjecting yourself to Ray’s recent experiments, you can still order a salad or a burger and have a lovely plein air evening.

In 1952, Ray Lichtenberger erected the 50-foot red neon RAY'S sign that still glows today.

In 1952, Ray Lichtenberger erected the 50-foot red neon RAY’S sign that still glows today.

Ray's Cafe, 6049 Seaview Ave. NW, (206)789-6309, rays.com. Mon.-Sun., 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.

Ray’s Cafe, 6049 Seaview Ave. NW, (206)789-6309, rays.com. Mon.-Sun., 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.