The last thing I want to do is turn our blog into the endlessly fatuous self-fellating that is Brand X (“Charles, you are just so piquant!” “As Erica so astutely puts it…” “See Lindy’s brilliant analysis here!”). But I just have to mention that Seattle’s best food writer, Jonathan Kauffman, has outdone even himself this week with a review of Justin Neidermeyer’s Spinasse that’s flat-out beautiful. His exquisite dish of prose is served here.