One can only stomach so many over- sweetened, barely cooked, behemoth suburban shopping-mall cinnamon rolls before becoming disgusted with the entire pastry industry—or at least the bun branch. It’s a too-much-of-a-good-thing situation, only the good thing has become bastardized to the point of not being good anymore. Come on back to the cinnamon roll at Specialty’s: Dense and just chewy enough, the bun itself is heavenly and not too sticky sweet, and its cinnamon-covered walls give the sugar rush a backbone. Creamy white icing completes the bun, and Specialty’s icing isn’t overdone or soupy, just generous enough to be decadent. This breakfast-and-lunch spot on Third Avenue is one of 11 Specialty’s locations; most are in Chicago and San Francisco. Some of the food, which includes other baked goods, soups, and sandwiches, tastes accordingly corporate. The wonderful cinnamon rolls, on the other hand, taste better than homemade. 1023 Third Ave., 877-502-2837. DOWNTOWN