“Soulful, home-cooked foodsaE”especially those with an avalanche of ingredientsaE”almost always taste better on the second go-round. There are scientific explanations for the phenomenon involving heat and molecules, but the principle is intuitive: Flavors behave like middle-schoolers at a Sadie Hawkins dance. They show up alone, overexcited, and jumpy. As the hours pass, they mellow and mingle.” Read Hanna Raskin’s full review of Afghan Cuisine.Photos by Joshua Huston.Published on September 15, 2011

Paukara Potato fitters-thinly sliced potatoes dipped in beasan flour batter, fried and served with cilantro chutney.

The decor.

Chicken Kabob Charbroiled chicken breast marinated with special seasoning

Qabili Basmati rice mixed with carrots, raisins, and topped off with a lamb shank.

Server/manager Toby Tabish Ibrahimi.

Ferni A light, silky pudding of milk and starched flavored with rosewater, cardamon, and pistachios.