"Somewhere in Baja, in a place whose name I do not care

“Somewhere in Baja, in a place whose name I do not care to remember, a gentleman lived not long ago, one of those who has a lance and ancient shield on a shelf and keeps a skinny nag and a greyhound for racing. An occasional stew, beef more than lamb, hash most nights, eggs and abstinence on Saturdays, tortillas on Fridays, sometimes chicken as a treat on SundaysaE”these consumed three-fourths of his income. His name, though greatly argued over by those who have heard tales of his doings, was either Ticotreme or Talotome, but this does not matter very much in our telling, for our story is about his adventures in el Norte, where he is known only as Juan Frederico Don de la TacotimAcaE”the man who invented Mexi-Fries.”Read Jason Sheehan’s full review of Taco Time.Photos by Joshua Huston.Published on March 24, 2011