SAMBAR In quintessential New Ballard fashion, Le Gourmand’s new bar is both classy and hip. The elegance is in the European-influenced cocktails, bar food, and desserts. The hipness is dictated by its size?a bar this small will have to stay exclusive by necessity. Sambar seems perched to prove that size doesn’t matter, because where it’s short on space, it’s big on creativity. Yes, the Gingerini ($9)?an Asian-influenced cocktail of gin, fresh ginger, lime juice, and sugar?is a bastardization of the classic martini, but at least it’s a successful one. The ginger adds a welcome warm zing and, surprisingly, doesn’t overwhelm. The Moshiso ($9.50) replaces mint leaves with similar- tasting red-colored shiso leaves in an otherwise classic mojito. European beers, aperitifs, and dessert wines as well as an assortment of fine ports, cognacs, grappas, and single-malt scotches range in price from steep to steeper, distinguishing Sambar from the casual drinking spots that dot Ballard Avenue. The real treat here is the bar food. Mini croque-monsieur ($5), smoked salmon rosettes ($11), and spinach-and-Gruyère souffle ($9) balance out time-honored bar staples such as French fries (Belgian-style “frites” here, $4) and assorted cheeses ($10). Go often if you can afford to do so. If not, Sambar would make a fine spot to celebrate a special occasion. 425 N.W. Market St., 206-781-4883. BALLARD

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