Photo by Leslie KellyTASTE’s Reuben is a meaty work of art.Man oh man, I love me a Reuben. There’s just something about the combination of the salty meat, tangy kraut, melty Swiss, and goopy Russian dressing on rye that speaks to me. (Probably whispering “Don’t forget to pop a post-meal Tums.”)I usually hate it when kitchens mess with the classic combo, but a new entry on the lunch menu at TASTE sounded intriguing. The sandwich starts with excellent rye bread from Columbia City Bakery, followed by Niman Ranch pastrami, red cabbage braised in apple-cider vinegar and a bit of brown sugar, then finished with a glorious cave-aged Gruyere. It was actually that lovely Swiss cheese that inspired chef Craig Hetherington to create the sandwich in the first place.The deal was sealed when I spotted the name of said sandwich on the menu. It’s called The Reubenesque. Which you surely would be if you ate too many of ’em, especially because they come with a side of fries, which just might be my favorite frites in Seattle. But you better try them and decide for yourself.Follow Voracious on Twitter and Facebook.