Paladar’s Midnight CubanoThe exact origins of the Medianoche Cubano (Midnight Cuban) sandwich remain unclear. The sandwich was popularized in the early 1900s by Cuban cigar-factory and sugar-mill workers looking for a filling, simple meal they could eat quickly on the job, though whether the sandwich was first developed in Cuba or Florida is still a mystery. But back to what we do know: the Midnight Cuban is a sweet Cuban roll (Cuban bread is, in a genius move, traditionally made with lard instead of oil) stuffed with an improbable combination of roasted pork, ham, Swiss cheese, mustard, and pickles. It’s also a well-known, albeit unfortunate, fact that there’s a shortage of these puppies in Seattle. This week, Versus taste-tests the only two Midnight Cubans known to be available in town (If you know of another, let us know in the comments!) from Greenwood’s Paladar Cubano and Fremont’s Paseo. Paladar Cubano (8953 Aurora Ave. N.) is street food Seattle could use more of: no fancy custom-made, tricked-out business, just a truck, set back from the street on the corner of 89th and Aurora, quietly serving up big portions of homey food at a reasonable price. Paladar’s Media Noche ($5.50) is a neatly pressed, tidy-looking sandwich, but don’t let that fool you: this thing is packed solid and weighs in at at least two pounds. The bread is sweet, buttery, and flaky, and the roasted pork is moist and flavorful, with hints of chile and spices. Thanks to quality time spent under the sandwich press, the extra stuff–ham and swiss cheese–is inextricably fused to the roasted pork, making for some ultra-rich, ultra-porky bites. Relief comes from the yellow mustard and crunchy pickles which provide the necessary balance of brightness and acidity. (Also: do yourself a favor and order a side of tostones, fried smashed plantains that come with a creamy, garlicky, cilantro dipping sauce. You’re welcome.)Paseo (4225 Fremont Ave. N., 545-7440) is already a Seattle institution when it comes to roasted pork, and with good reason. The pork is bananas: slippery, fatty, juicy, marinated (with spices, and maybe a little citrus?) slow-roasted pork shoulder that’s fall-apart tender. With Paseo’s Midnight Cuban Press ($7.75), the pork is loaded onto a baguette slathered with garlicky mayonnaise, and grilled onions, cilantro, spicy banana peppers, smoky ham, and Swiss cheese are added before the whole thing is smushed down in the sandwich press. This sandwich is an over-the-top glorious hot mess (the three-inch pile of napkins that comes with the sandwich tells you everything you need to know), with roasted pork and caramelized grilled onions sharing the MVP award for making magic happen. The sandwich is so good it’s almost (almost!) enough to make you overlook the fact that it bears almost no resemblance to an actual Midnight Cuban. Verdict:If you’re looking for an amazing roasted pork sandwich, head to Paseo. But if you’re looking for a real-deal Midnight Cuban–sweet bread, solid roast pork, with the bracing tang of mustard and pickles–it doesn’t beat Paladar. Paladar for the win.