“Open the menu and the entire thrust of the place is laid

November 26, 2012 12:00 am
Starting on the left, the Brisket & Fried Egg Sandwich, in the middle the Full English Breakfast, and on the right the Summer Squash Frittata. Also in the photos is a seasonal jar of fruit.
Starting on the left, the Brisket & Fried Egg Sandwich, in the middle the Full English Breakfast, and on the right the Summer Squash Frittata. Also in the photos is a seasonal jar of fruit.

“Open the menu and the entire thrust of the place is laid plain: bowls of marinated olives, cheese plates with honeycomb, cured meat with pickled fennel, a Painted Hills burger, pork belly, sweetbreads, and hanger steak. The proteins are confined to a single expression of chicken, lamb, and a fish of the day. Smith is aiming straight for that rustic sweet spotaE”a target with a very small bull’s-eye for all those reasons mentioned above, but one which is by no means impossible to hit. All it takes is care, thought, an easy hand, and a good eye.I order poutine, a plate of sweetbreads, and a simple salad of local lettuces and almonds, and ease back into my booth behind a Rainier tallboy, anticipating good things.”Read Jason Sheehan’s full review of Smith.Photos by Joshua Huston.Published on October 1, 2010

A taxidermist's wet dream.

A taxidermist’s wet dream.

Full English Breakfast (three eggs fried, ham, baked tomato, sausage, baked beans, & fry bread).

Full English Breakfast (three eggs fried, ham, baked tomato, sausage, baked beans, & fry bread).

I love African Spoonbills.

I love African Spoonbills.

Brisket & Fried Egg Sandwich (with hot mustard, fried green tomatoes & gruyere, served with fries).

Brisket & Fried Egg Sandwich (with hot mustard, fried green tomatoes & gruyere, served with fries).