This week, local asparagus is everywhere, but keep an eye peeled for local strawberries, which are coming to market earlier than usual. (Global warming? You be the judge.) Don’t settle for a sign claiming local origin: Ask where your berries come from, and what variety they are. If the clerk doesn’t know, ask why. We must be ruthless in the defense of local producers. The varieties to watch for are Shuksan, Totem, Hood, and Rainier. Remember: Unlike California berries, these are so delicate they should be eaten the very day you buy them. Just ahead: Copper River salmon!

food@seattleweekly.com