Lunch Box

LARRY’S MARKET Bread. If you’re going to package and deliver sandwich-centric box lunches, you should use good bread. Larry’s prefab midday meals ($9.95 apiece) have their virtuescrisp, sweet apples; Tim’s Cascade potato chips; toothsome peanut-butter or oatmeal-raisin bars; and Hansen’s Natural sodas instead of the usual Coke-or-Pepsibut the sandwiches, man, the sandwiches will break your heart. Bread that was clearly doin’ time in Freezer City just hours ago emerges soggy and flavorless; it would be less disappointing if the sandwich “innards” (meat, cheese, and veggies) were better. But the roasted vegetable sandwich overdoes the cloyingly sweet “Greca” sauce, drowning innocent artichoke hearts, portobellas, sautéed onions, and red peppers in syrup. Other seemingly reliable choicesthe “American Hero” and club sandwicheswere nothing our tasters couldn’t have made at home. We love Larry’s Market, and so do youyou voted it “best supermarket” in our recent Best of Seattle surveybut here’s a word to the wise: You’d be better off buying your sandwich stuff and sides piecemeal from Larry’s and fixing your own lunch. Sometimes à la carte is where it’s at. Unless of course you’re feeding a large group or catering a lunch meeting, in which case these convenient boxed lunchesdelivered in a speedy little Larry’s minivanwill do the trick. Larry’s Market (100 Mercer St., 206-343-8646, QUEEN ANNE; five other Seattle-area locations)


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