ITALIAN

Agrodolce

Agrodolce serves southern Italian fare, the brainchild of Maria Hines and executed by executive chef Jason Brzozowy. The menu pulls inspiration from the coast and the land in dishes with handmade pasta. Ingredients—like the smoked mussels, the lacinato kale, and the grass-fed lamb—are local, sustainable, and organic, as Hines is wont to do. Surprisingly for an Italian restaurant, Hines and Brzozowy offer several vegan and gluten-free dishes, and manage to make them without sacrificing flavor or quality. Of late, they’re even milling their own grains in the basement (like Emmer) for freshly made pasta. 709 N. 35th St., 547-9707,

agrodolcerestaurant.net MEGAN HILL

How to Cook a Wolf

The many iterations of Ethan Stowell’s core concept all have their unique charms, but How to Cook a Wolf remains the most well-articulated version of the kind of Italian cuisine Stowell has championed. Tiny and compact, it has an openness that inspires a sense of trust and belief, akin to a magician rolling up his sleeves to prove he doesn’t have a card stuck there. The food draws both from Italian classics and Northwest staples: witness a geoduck crudo. The pasta is handmade and delicious, and the cured meats always excel. 2208 Queen Anne Ave. N., 838-8090,

ethanstowellrestaurants.com ZACH GEBALLE

Il Corvo

Even in this era of gluten shame, few things satisfy quite the way a bowl of handmade pasta, perfectly sauced, can. Mike Easton’s food remains dedicated to excellence through simplicity, with just three pastas and a few antipasti available on any given day. Don’t let the crowds faze you; the food (and the sense of contentment) is worth the wait. 217 James St., 538-0999,

ilcorvopasta.com ZACH GEBALLE

Spinasse

The effect of seeing your pasta being made in front of you can’t be underestimated. Whenever I go to Spinasse, I inevitably gravitate to the bar, where I can watch the team of pasta makers mix, shape, and cut while I enjoy the fruits of their labor. With a sterling wine list centered on nebbiolo, the gem of Piedmont, and a thoughtful, varied menu that highlights the pasta, Spinasse remains Seattle’s benchmark for fresh pasta and Northern Italian fare. 1531 14th Ave., 251-7673,

spinasse.com ZACH GEBALLE