In this week’s food section, Jonathan Kauffman wades through all the “best

In this week’s food section, Jonathan Kauffman wades through all the “best pad thai” restaurants in Seattle. Some bested others including the pad thais of Thai Tom, Tip Tim Thai and Jamjuree. All photos by Garrett Mukai.Published on April 14, 2009

Thai Tom's pad thai.

Thai Tom’s pad thai.

A complete recreation of my Khao San Road noodles, to a whiff.

A complete recreation of my Khao San Road noodles, to a whiff.

Jamjuree in Capitol Hill (509 15th Ave. E., 323-4255)

Jamjuree in Capitol Hill (509 15th Ave. E., 323-4255)

The pad thai tasted like office art, respectable and pleasant. Oh, I ate my share.

The pad thai tasted like office art, respectable and pleasant. Oh, I ate my share.

But it began to bother me that none of SeattleaE™s Thai restaurants served little condiment trays along with their noodles so I could doctor mine up with fish sauce, pickled bird chiles, salt, and sugar.

But it began to bother me that none of SeattleaE™s Thai restaurants served little condiment trays along with their noodles so I could doctor mine up with fish sauce, pickled bird chiles, salt, and sugar.

Tup Tim Thai (118 W. Mercer St., 281-8833)

Tup Tim Thai (118 W. Mercer St., 281-8833)

At Tup Tim Thai a pale peach-colored chicken pad thai, just oily enough to leave the plate glossy, greeted me like an old friend.

At Tup Tim Thai a pale peach-colored chicken pad thai, just oily enough to leave the plate glossy, greeted me like an old friend.

Serving it up, to go.

Serving it up, to go.

The noodles were nutty from roasted peanuts and peanut oil, and beneath the scrambled egg and scallions, the sauce tripped lightly from palm sugar to the tang of tamarind, segueing softly into the glow of chile heat.

The noodles were nutty from roasted peanuts and peanut oil, and beneath the scrambled egg and scallions, the sauce tripped lightly from palm sugar to the tang of tamarind, segueing softly into the glow of chile heat.

The response to aEœWhataE™s the best pad thai?aE is a no-brainer: ItaE™s the one you prefer.

The response to aEœWhataE™s the best pad thai?aE is a no-brainer: ItaE™s the one you prefer.