“I’m withholding my brilliant first paragraph, much the way that Chan—a self-proclaimed

October 29, 2012 12:00 am
Chan, 86 Pine St., 443-5443
Chan, 86 Pine St., 443-5443

“I’m withholding my brilliant first paragraph, much the way that Chan—a self-proclaimed ‘modern Korean fusion’ restaurant that opened this spring alongside Pike Place’s Inn at the Market—won’t bring banchan to the table unless guests pledge three bucks to Korean Foster Care. That’s not a suggested donation: It’s the mandated price, listed on the menu.”Read the rest of Hanna Raskin’s review here.Photos by Joshua Huston.Published on August 15, 2012

Assigning a charitable fee to banchan flips the meaning of the snacks, which are typically given freely and generously as a signal of hospitality. It's not unusual for a Korean restaurant to present its guests with six to eight complimentary rounded stainless-steel bowls brimming with tangles of spicy mung bean sprouts, shredded dried squid, cubes of snow-white pickled radish, and braised potatoes. When a bowl's emptied, it's returned to the kitchen for a refill. Chan, by contrast, serves a rectangular white plate set with two dainty chopstick scoops apiece of whole shishito peppers, marinated mushrooms, carrots, zucchini and sprouts. No seconds.

Assigning a charitable fee to banchan flips the meaning of the snacks, which are typically given freely and generously as a signal of hospitality. It’s not unusual for a Korean restaurant to present its guests with six to eight complimentary rounded stainless-steel bowls brimming with tangles of spicy mung bean sprouts, shredded dried squid, cubes of snow-white pickled radish, and braised potatoes. When a bowl’s emptied, it’s returned to the kitchen for a refill. Chan, by contrast, serves a rectangular white plate set with two dainty chopstick scoops apiece of whole shishito peppers, marinated mushrooms, carrots, zucchini and sprouts. No seconds.

Cold buckwheat noodles in a zingy vinaigrette are the beneficiaries of a medley of cucumbers, cabbage and red onion.

Cold buckwheat noodles in a zingy vinaigrette are the beneficiaries of a medley of cucumbers, cabbage and red onion.

Fried rice cakes.

Fried rice cakes.

Bulgogi beef sliders are sloppy, but the chili mayonnaise has pep and the meat's tender.

Bulgogi beef sliders are sloppy, but the chili mayonnaise has pep and the meat’s tender.

Short Ribs.

Short Ribs.

The grilled asparagus spears served with a slippery hunk of black cod flaking over a sweet wheel of daikon are just as good as the plush fish that's the star of the plate.

The grilled asparagus spears served with a slippery hunk of black cod flaking over a sweet wheel of daikon are just as good as the plush fish that’s the star of the plate.

Even a preparation as pedestrian as bibimbap is elevated by the addition of firm, just-plucked mushrooms and magenta radicchio.

Even a preparation as pedestrian as bibimbap is elevated by the addition of firm, just-plucked mushrooms and magenta radicchio.

An unassailable aEœsojitoaE slaps Latin training wheels on soju, the popular rice-based spirit that's still largely unknown in the U.S.

An unassailable aEœsojitoaE slaps Latin training wheels on soju, the popular rice-based spirit that’s still largely unknown in the U.S.

Chan uses great ingredients, and really soars when it applies them to the accessible recipes that annually propel Korean cuisine to the top of coming trends lists.

Chan uses great ingredients, and really soars when it applies them to the accessible recipes that annually propel Korean cuisine to the top of coming trends lists.