I get that phrase now, from M.F.K. Fisher, who perhaps considered oysters to the point of obsession. These Shigoku oysters debuted from Taylor Shellfish Farms about a month ago, to the squealing delight of food professionals all across the city. If ever there was an bivalve to prove oysters to be an aphrodisiac, these are they… These beauties, consumed at the Boat Street Cafe with an ever appropriate Sancerre and Sauvignon Blanc from Patient Cottat of the Loire Valley, were worth every bit of the hype. Their shells a lightly ridged amalgam of shades of dove gray, the inside a slightly deeper cup to hold the extra fleshy bit. I love kusshi oysters best because they usually have a more substantial meat to them than kumamotos. Shigokus are meatier still, with a delicate and sweet flavor punctuated by a perfect hit of the sea. In addition to that, they just plain look like perfection.Sometimes local eating can seem dangerously close to an extreme sport, no product rare enough, always searching for the obscurest mushroom or heirloom chicken…Mangalitsa pigs come to mind. But if you see Shigokus on the menu, they’re worth the price. Of course, you can always show up early to the Ballard farmers market and hope to get a dozen from Oyster Bill for $12.