Hot: Offal! In a time where farmers markets are all the rage

Hot:

Offal! In a time where farmers markets are all the rage and words like “local” and “sustainable” are thrown out daily, we as a country are catching up with the rest of the world. Utilizing all parts down to those nasty bits is the best way to honor the animal and the life it gave us. Chefs are doing just that, cooking sweetbreads, hearts, feet, and heads, and they are amazing. We served duck testicles at Art of the Table on a tasting menu one weekend; everyone ate them and loved them. If you are reading this and are nervous, don’t be. Go someplace where you trust the chef, and if it’s on the menu, get down! You’ll be offally impressed!

Lukewarm:

Sliders. It seems every restaurant out there has to have a slider on the menu, most of them little more than a piece of pork belly on a bun. I do love little sandwiches, though—I mean, who doesn’t? So if you’re doing this, do something different—a biscuit or some grilled bread, maybe a croissant instead of the usual brioche bun or hard-as-a-rock pretzel roll. Try a pulled goat leg or braised veal breast for the meat. Don’t forget the sauce, and a slaw or some cooked-down greens. Make these babies worth the $7 we’re paying for them, and they will stay in the hot seat!

Freezer Burned:

Super-beautiful, expensive restaurants that skimp on your $8-a-glass pour or can’t throw a small side salad or even some chips on that $12 sandwich. Place looks great, but I came here to eat!