Hidden biscuit treasures: Luna Park CafeBiscuits and gravy is a little like

Hidden biscuit treasures: Luna Park CafeBiscuits and gravy is a little like Chinese food: ubiquitous and so popular that restaurants often take for granted that people will eat whatever half-assed version of it that they serve up. All too often, you get dry, dense hockey pucks covered in floury, rigid, and coagulated sauce. The number of mediocre facsimiles of biscuits and gravy lurking in diners and breakfast joints out there far outnumber the number of well-produced dishes of flaky buttermilk biscuits and milky-white sausage gravy. That just isn’t right. After extensive questioning of acquaintances and nosing around on the internet, Voracious tested biscuits and gravy at two restaurants allegedly serving up solid versions of this breakfast favorite: Luna Park Cafe and Geraldine’s Counter. Even though they come hidden underneath a blanket of gravy (see photographic evidence above), the biscuits at Luna Park Cafe are close to perfect: buttery yellow, airy and flaky, with an outer crust that holds up under even the thickest white gravy. The gravy, despite its intimidating blob-like appearance, is remarkably silky and light (not even the slightest bit congealed or immobile, as country gravy is wont to be), pleasantly peppery, and studded with bits of pork sausage. You’ll find yourself eating all of the accompanying hash browns, expertly browned on the griddle to give them that satisfying outer crunch, as the horrified secret carb-counter inside of you screams in vain. Look at all that sausage! Geraldine’s CounterAt Geraldine’s Counter, you’ll forget about both the biscuits and the gravy for a moment when you notice the generous mound of ground sausage that comes atop your breakfast. Geraldine’s certainly does not hold back when it comes to putting quality meat on the platter, and that gets them big points. Unfortunately, the gravy in which the sausage comes is so thin as to be almost nonexistent. It’s forgettable, too, save for the aggressive flavor of sage and the pools of oil the sauce separates into after a few minutes. And you may well want to forget about those biscuits altogether: they’re so dense and heavy you’ll find yourself reaching for your glass of water after every bite just to unclog and refresh your palate. Loose, dry hash browns that taste like old grease only add insult to injury here. Verdict: Not even the pound of pork Geraldine’s puts on its plate can redeem their runny, oily gravy and gummy biscuits. It does, however, make you wish all breakfast joints (including Luna Park Cafe) would consider such generosity when it comes time to add the smoky breakfast meat. Luna Park for the win.


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