Hidden among the Ave’s many shanty eateries, it’s easy to mistake Ruby

Published 7:00 am Monday, August 30, 2010

Hidden among the Ave’s many shanty eateries, it’s easy to mistake Ruby Restaurant for just another hole-in-the-wall joint. Its minimalist decor and dark interior make it appear almost vacant from the street corner. But don’t let its location fool you.The entrance is flanked by ceiling-to-floor windows, and the moment you enter you’re faced with a towering counter, which for those of us not yet old enough to “sit at the big kid’s table,” makes you feel all the more childish as the waiter shuffles you to the left corridor of the restaurant. The floor is poured concrete and the walls are earthy tones. Decorating them are abstract acrylic landscapes, fisheye mirrors thickly rimmed with gold, and blackboards scrawled with chalk. The tables are completely devoid of condiments, utensils, even a simple flower arrangement. Because of the dim lighting and industrial design, the space feels almost like a basement hang-out spot.Ruby’s caters to an older crowd, probably because of its happy hour specials and more sophisticated cuisine. But it’s obvious from the waiter’s easy conversation with customers, that the restaurant has a loyal fan base. One couple jokingly asks the host to show them to the best table in the house, a modest black desk with sleek office chairs.Ruby’s has been described as an eclectic blend of international cuisine. The menu is a mismatch of moderately priced American dishes, Mediterranean cuisine and Asian-fused cooking. Ingredients include salmon, tofu, lamb and spicy curries, refined flavors for a mostly student neighborhood. We ordered a dahl curry bowl and a Ruby burger, which quickly brought the bill to $20. The curry was spicy and the chicken tender, but the rice was sticky and slightly overcooked. At least the portions were satisfying. In fact, the burger was so massive it dwarfed the gourmet bun. Nothing like the bland fast-food burgers that dictate college cuisine, this patty was pleasantly flavorful. The fries were so salty and crispy, they called to mind Dick’s famous side order. And after only a few bites we both had to push back our chairs and ask the waiter for takeout boxes.The service at Ruby’s is fast and friendly, but there’s also a certain relaxed charm to the place. Adding to that chill-factor is the live music in the evenings. The Ave has never been known for its fine dining, and while Ruby’s is perhaps most appreciated for its drink specials and casual ambiance, the restaurant offers a hip escape from fast-food chains and teriyaki bowls.