“Fried chicken purists might take exception to Fuller’s way of frying, which

October 29, 2012 12:00 am
It's to chef Mark Fuller's credit that he's found a way to seamlessly remake Spring Hill Restaurant, his lauded West Seattle fine-dining destination, as Ma'ono Fried Chicken & Whiskey, a whimsical Hawaiian fried chicken house.
It's to chef Mark Fuller's credit that he's found a way to seamlessly remake Spring Hill Restaurant, his lauded West Seattle fine-dining destination, as Ma'ono Fried Chicken & Whiskey, a whimsical Hawaiian fried chicken house.

“Fried chicken purists might take exception to Fuller’s way of frying, which is a sight more elaborate than preparations involving salt, pepper and a paper bag. But what Fuller has produced is phenomenal next-day chicken.”Photos by Joshua Huston.Read the rest of Hanna Raskin’s review here.Published on April 9, 2012

Still, no matter how many times Fuller tinkers with the menu, it'sreally a formality: Most Ma'ono diners come for the chicken.

Still, no matter how many times Fuller tinkers with the menu, it’sreally a formality: Most Ma’ono diners come for the chicken.

Ma'ono's double-fried chicken is also wonderful cold, especially when it's been anointed with one of two sauces. A salty paste of red chili and fermented soybeans or a pungent hot mustard and honey sauce.

Ma’ono’s double-fried chicken is also wonderful cold, especially when it’s been anointed with one of two sauces. A salty paste of red chili and fermented soybeans or a pungent hot mustard and honey sauce.

An elegant macaroni salad, dashed with slivered carrots and slicedgreen onions, that probably wouldn't answer to 'mac.'

An elegant macaroni salad, dashed with slivered carrots and slicedgreen onions, that probably wouldn’t answer to ‘mac.’

Whole Rainbow Trout - Seasoned with Kauai Saltwater, lemon, ogo,cilantro, scallions, and rice.

Whole Rainbow Trout – Seasoned with Kauai Saltwater, lemon, ogo,cilantro, scallions, and rice.

Spiced Ham Musubi.

Spiced Ham Musubi.

The gochujang chicken is the ideal counterpart to the sour kimchithat's served with every chicken.

The gochujang chicken is the ideal counterpart to the sour kimchithat’s served with every chicken.

Bartender Joe working on a Knox Manhattan.

Bartender Joe working on a Knox Manhattan.

Knox Manhattan - Knob Creek Bourbon, Punt e Mes, Fernet Branca,Orange Bitters.

Knox Manhattan – Knob Creek Bourbon, Punt e Mes, Fernet Branca,Orange Bitters.

Like the fried chicken, the pie is a marvel of plush and crust,and good reason to look forward to the day when Ma'ono's metamorphosis is complete.

Like the fried chicken, the pie is a marvel of plush and crust,and good reason to look forward to the day when Ma’ono’s metamorphosis is complete.

Ma'ono Fried Chicken & Whisky, 4437 California Ave SW,(206)935-1075. maonoseattle.com. Mon.-Fri., 5 p.m.-10 p.m.; Sat.-Sun., 10 a.m.-2 p.m., 5 p.m.-10 p.m.

Ma’ono Fried Chicken & Whisky, 4437 California Ave SW,(206)935-1075. maonoseattle.com. Mon.-Fri., 5 p.m.-10 p.m.; Sat.-Sun., 10 a.m.-2 p.m., 5 p.m.-10 p.m.