The Watering Hole: Madison Park Conservatory, 1927 43rd Ave. E., MADISON PARK
The Atmosphere: Since its November 30 opening, Madison Park Conservatory has quietly—and quickly—garnered a loyal following. Quietly, because if you didn’t know it was there, you wouldn’t know it was there. Tucked between the bustle of neighboring McGilvra’s and long blocks of stately waterfront dwellings, one could easily pass Madison Park Conservatory’s shaded front. As I did. Twice. Inside, diners (or drinkers, in this case) are immediately greeted by a slow rush of warm, savory air, a friendly smile from the hostess, and the low glow of a gracefully rustic, yet modern, interior.
Madison Park Conservatory’s quiet decadence extends to its menu, dotted with items like roasted bone marrow, grilled wagyu beef tongue, (greatly anticipated) deviled eggs with crab salad, and creative vegetarian plates, such as tajarin with local vegetables. It’s very, very dark inside—the kind of dark that makes you feel like you’re the keeper of a lovely secret. Or perhaps you’re doing something lovely that you should probably be keeping secret.
The Barkeep: Keara wasted no time in preparing a drink with looks that belied its intensity: richly amber-colored in a simple martini glass, garnished with a gorgeous orange kumquat—the perfect union of drink and design. Asked what said drink was called, Keara stated she preferred not to name it, as naming it might ruin its stately image. Pressed, Keara finally gave up—but not really. “It’s a Fernet Cocktail,” she said. “It’s a Hanky-Panky,” quipped another bartender. “No. It’s a Fernet Cocktail,” insisted Keara, pointing out that “Fernet is far too masculine to be associated with words like ‘hanky-panky.’ “
The Drink: Equal parts fernet, sweet vermouth, and gin, the Hanky-Panky was perfection in a glass. It was bitter and minty, at times seeming salty, other times a little sweet. After quietly commenting to my companion that I had no idea what fernet was, I was politely informed that it was a slightly minty aperitif drunk in some countries to cure intestinal woes. So I decided to order another, as well as round two of the crab deviled eggs.
The Verdict: From the low lights to the lush menu, everything about Madison Park Conservatory silently screams hanky-panky. It is nice to look at. It is masculine, feminine, dark, warm, tasty, and secretive. It makes you want to order a Hanky-Panky and share a sly night that, at the very least, your belly won’t regret the next morning.
